Archive for the ‘Non-vegetarian food’ Category

Tracking Down Traditional Scottish Food in India

Monday, April 27th, 2009

This Article appeared in the Scottish Times on 12/04/09 and was written by Pamela Timms

Egg Kedegree & Mince and Tatties

Egg Kedegree & Mince and Tatties (potatoes),prepared by Bridget for lunch with Pamela Timms, a British Free lance Journalist

In Bangalore,last week I met Bridget White-Kumar, an obsessive chronicler of all things Anglo-Indian and author of five recipe books crammed with such delights as “grandma’s country captain chicken” and “railway mutton curry”.

At first glance, Bangalore, the home of modern India’s IT miracle, is a city that more than any other has freed itself from every trace of the Raj. Yet I found a community that has held on to many Scottish and English food traditions and used them to carve out its own identity.

Bridget greeted me with tea and shortbread. When she rustled up mince and tatties and said I could borrow her precious old recipe books, I was ready for her to adopt me. They include a rare 1874 edition of the Madras Cookery Book, written anonymously by “an English resident’s wife”, which contains recipes — or “receipts” as the memsahib called them — for Caledonian classics such as Scotch broth, mashed turnips and scones.

Bridget is no misty-eyed imperialist but a member of Bangalore’s 15,000-strong Anglo-Indian community, descendents of Scottish and English families who came to seek their fortunes in the colonies.

After independence, one might have imagined Anglo-Indians would have been glad to see the back of meat loaf and sago pudding, but the community, although proudly Indian, identifies closely with Scottish and English traditions and food.

Bridget’s own grandfather was a Scot named Percy Edgar Joseph and, through the enthusiastic scribblings of her mother and grandmother, she has inherited a vast collection of Anglo-Indian recipes.

Her mince and tatties, although unsurprisingly more peppery than we’re used to, bears a striking resemblance to the one I grew up with. I was amused to hear that it occupied the same place in her family culinary repertoire as it did in my family’s. “It’s what we have when I can’t think what else to make,” she says.

While we devoured the mince, kedgeree and semolina pudding, Bridget told me about her early life on the British-run Kolar Gold Fields, in Karnataka where her father worked. I left Bangalore with a heavy stomach and even heavier heart, vowing to go back as soon as possible.

ANGLO-INDIAN BEEF STEW … COMFORT FOOD

Thursday, April 16th, 2009

The origins of “Stew” as a typical Anglo-Indian dish can be traced back to the advent of the Europeans in India, with the arrival of the Portuguese in 1498 on the south-west coast of Kerala in search of Pepper (called Black Gold by them) and spices. These European invasions brought with them foods and ingredients such as Tomatoes, Potatoes, Green peppers, paprika, etc which were quickly assimilated in the cuisine of India. These ingredients are synonymous with Indian food today. 

 

However it was the British, who left an indelible mark on Indian Cuisine. The Cuisine they left behind was a result of reinventing and reinterpreting the old quintessentially western cuisine by assimilating and amalgamating ingredients and cooking techniques from all over the Indian sub-continent. Thus a completely new contemporary cuisine came into existence making it truly “Anglo” and “Indian” in nature, which was neither too bland nor too spicy, but with a distinctive flavour of its own, comfortably straddling both cultures. It became a direct reflection of the multi-cultural and hybrid heritage of the new colonial population.

 

This new cuisine is often called “Club food,” referring to the food served even today in country clubs throughout India. Stews, Bakes, Sandwiches and white bread are a legacy of the British, and Indians have taken these to new heights, making them part of their daily cuisine.

 

While the Portuguese left us their Vinha de Ahlos  or our very own Vindaloo, it was the

British who left behind their very appetizing Stew.  Stews are thick, meaty soups that are usually served as a main course. I’m sure that many will agree, there’s nothing more comforting on a winter evening than a delicious bowl of  stew. Stew is comfort food, the perfect meal to gather the family around the table. A good stew mixes different flavors that soak into the meat through slow cooking. Filled with lots of vegetables, it’s an easy one pot meal. Ingredients in a stew can include any combination of vegetables such as potatoes, beans carrots, peas, cabbage, capsicums, tomatoes, etc, combined with any meat, poultry, sea food, pork etc., depending on personal preference. While water can be used to cook the stew, any stock can also be used as also a dash of wine. Seasonings  and flavourings such as green chillies, spices, onions, peppers and thickening agents such as flour or cornstarch are used.

 

Stews are typically cooked at a relatively low temperature i.e. simmered, not boiled, to allow all the  flavors to merge with each other. The earthy flavours of vegetables combine with the meat stock and spices to give out an enticing aroma while cooking. However, Beef stew is best made in a pressure cooker since the meat and vegetables would be cooked to perfection

 

This hearty, healthy one-pot meal can be eaten by itself or served with bread or rice. Perfection. A Stew is not only filling, but also low in calories, the fat content is remarkably low, since by trimming the meat the fat is further reduced. It is also an ideal way to get children to eat vegetables, and no vitamins are lost by throwing away the water. The great thing about stews is that they can be tailored to suit your family’s personal tastes and preferences. Don’t like carrots? Leave them out. Have a passion for popatoes? Double up on it. Want to add some wine? Add a dash. More spicy? Add a little more pepper or green chillies. So get  adventurous with the flavours and spices. Coconut paste makes lamb stew even more delicious. Try the recipe below, then invent your own. And be sure to share your recipe here with us.

 

Anglo-Indian Meat and Vegetable Stew

Serves 6     Preparation Time approx 1 hour

Ingredients

 

1 kg Beef or Mutton / Lamb cut into cubes       2 tablespoons oil

2 onions sliced finely                                         1 Bay leaf

4 or 5 cloves                                                       6 or 8 peppercorns

3 cardamoms                                                      2 pieces cinnamon

1 teaspoon garlic paste                                       1 teaspoon ginger paste

2 teaspoons flour or cornstarch                          2 tomatoes chopped or pureed

2 carrots peeled and cut into pieces                    2 potatoes peeled and cut into cubes

1 cup cauliflower florets                                     ½ cup beans cut into 1 inch pieces

3 green chillies slit                                               2 tablespoons coconut paste (optional)

Salt to taste

 

Heat the oil in a pressure cooker or suitable pan. Add all the whole spices and fry lightly. Add the onions and fry till golden brown. Add the ginger paste, garlic paste and green chillies and fry for a few minutes. Add the tomato and fry till the oil separates. Now add the meat and stir fry for 5 more minutes. Next add the cut vegetables, coconut paste, salt and sufficient water and cook on high heat for 10 minutes. Release the steam and open the pressure cooker.  Now add the flour / cornstarch mixed with a little water and mix well. Simmer for a few more minutes. Serve hot with Rice or bread

Meat and Venthium Greens Curry

Tuesday, March 31st, 2009

(Meat cooked with Fenugreek leaves)

Serves 6

  1. Preparation Time 1 hour
  2. 1/2 kg meat (beef or mutton)
  3. 1 cup of venthium greens washed well
  4. 2 big onions chopped finely
  5. 3 big tomatoes pureed
  6. 2 teaspoons chilly powder
  7. 1/2 teaspoon tumeric powder
  8. 2 teaspoons coriander powder
  9. 2 teaspoons ginger garlic paste
  10. 1/2 cup coconut paste
  11. 3 tablespoons oil
  12. Salt to taste

Heat oil in a pressure cooker and fry the onions well. Add the ginger garlic paste and sauté lightly. Add the tomato puree, chilly powder and coriander powder and fry for some time. Add the meat and the venthium greens, mix well and continue frying for some time till the oil separates from the masala and the greens shrivel up. Add salt and 2 cups of water and pressure cook till done